Trip Report: Western Cathedral Range, Yosemite National Park
Route: John Muir Trail from Tuolumne Meadows to Cathedral Lakes, off trail to Echo and Matthes Lakes, and return via the trail from Elizabeth Lake to Tuolumne Meadows
Date: 12 weeks after Tioga Road opened
Duration: 3 days
Author: Nancy
Header photo: Matthes Crest viewed from the Echo Lake vicinity
Date: 12 weeks after Tioga Road opened
Duration: 3 days
Author: Nancy
Header photo: Matthes Crest viewed from the Echo Lake vicinity
My first backpacking trip coincided with my first visit to Yosemite National Park, so it's fair to say that the stage had been set for a spectacular trip. I was excited about the excursion; my partner Jason Lucero, an experienced backpacker and Yosemite resident, had taken care of important details that I didn't know how to plan; and the weather and our route were forecast to be absolutely gorgeous. We drove from Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows, and even the trip to the trailhead was a thrill for me. Yosemite Valley is beautiful, but the drama of the high peaks, mountain lakes, and high-country vistas definitely outshines it.
Day One
Cathedral Peak, Cathedral Lakes
We started hiking at about 1300 hours on the portion of the John Muir Trail that connects the Tuolumne Meadows to Cathedral Lakes. From the moment I shrugged on my backpack, I was captivated. I craved the physical challenge of hiking, and I loved the idea of heading into the woods and mountains for the three days with everything I needed on my back. I felt powerfully self-sufficient as I began the uphill hike to Cathedral Lakes. I followed the peaks as they came in and out of view through the trees, a hide-and-seek of sorts that gave Jason a chance to introduce me to topographic maps and backcountry navigation (which at the time seemed ridiculously obtuse). Cathedral Peak came into view as the trail curved east. We had finished the climb and were heading down into the Cathedral Lakes Meadow. We had gotten a fairly late start on the hike, so this scenic spot was going to be where we'd spend our first night.
The hike to Cathedral Lakes wasn't far, and we had gotten there with what seemed to be plenty of daylight left. The nooks and crannies of the surrounding granite tempted me to climb about and explore. Being used to car camping at low elevation, I didn't realize just how dark—or cold—it was going to get once the sun went down. Jason had advised me properly, so I had the right gear to put on, but I was about to learn my first important lesson for backpacking: dress ahead of temperature changes. The moment that sun slipped behind the mountains, it got chilly fast, and I got cold. I was still wearing the running skirt I had worn on the hike in and a light rain jacket I had put on when we dropped our packs. It was time to get camp set up and change clothes.
We quickly set up the tent, got water, and started our dinner. It was getting progressively darker, and the waning moon wasn't up high enough to aid our efforts. Jason was comfortable, but I was not. I was feeling chilled and unsure of myself in the darkness despite my headlamp. Once I got my contact lenses out and we finished eating and cleaning up, we were able to settle into our sleeping bags and stargaze for a while outside the tent. I warmed up and felt better, but my sinuses were completely closed. I didn't have a headache, but breathing felt a little difficult. Jason reassured me, but I was somewhat concerned that I was having a problem with the altitude and went to sleep feeling uneasy. I slept pretty comfortably through the night however, and the sinus pressure had disappeared by morning.
The hike to Cathedral Lakes wasn't far, and we had gotten there with what seemed to be plenty of daylight left. The nooks and crannies of the surrounding granite tempted me to climb about and explore. Being used to car camping at low elevation, I didn't realize just how dark—or cold—it was going to get once the sun went down. Jason had advised me properly, so I had the right gear to put on, but I was about to learn my first important lesson for backpacking: dress ahead of temperature changes. The moment that sun slipped behind the mountains, it got chilly fast, and I got cold. I was still wearing the running skirt I had worn on the hike in and a light rain jacket I had put on when we dropped our packs. It was time to get camp set up and change clothes.
We quickly set up the tent, got water, and started our dinner. It was getting progressively darker, and the waning moon wasn't up high enough to aid our efforts. Jason was comfortable, but I was not. I was feeling chilled and unsure of myself in the darkness despite my headlamp. Once I got my contact lenses out and we finished eating and cleaning up, we were able to settle into our sleeping bags and stargaze for a while outside the tent. I warmed up and felt better, but my sinuses were completely closed. I didn't have a headache, but breathing felt a little difficult. Jason reassured me, but I was somewhat concerned that I was having a problem with the altitude and went to sleep feeling uneasy. I slept pretty comfortably through the night however, and the sinus pressure had disappeared by morning.
Day Two
I
Echo Lake, Yosemite National Park
I awoke to bright sun and amazing warmth. Our campsite was flooded with sunlight, and a daytime moon hung beautifully in the blue sky over the cliffs. I was thrilled to see it, although I would have preferred for it to show up when I needed it the night before. I laugh when I think back to my sense of relief upon awakening that morning. I had been very anxious—I'd even call it scared—about my sinuses and the breathing the night before. I think I'd read too much about altitude sickness. But there I was, alive and well and feeling better, and that was a huge relief. I made a mental note to consider bringing sinus medication on future trips (a precaution that I've since implemented but never needed).
We enjoyed breakfast, and I luxuriated in the sunshine. Coming to Yosemite from upstate New York, I found such an excess of sunlight was a rare treat. I couldn't get enough of the feeling of it on my skin. But starting on day two of the trip, I was going to learn a second lesson about hiking at altitude in the sun: fair skin like mine sunburns quickly and easily. Although I had applied sunblock while we were hiking, it seemed to be providing inadequate protection. But even if it was protecting me on the trail, the damage was still being done while I was lounging around in camp early in the morning, before the sun even felt that strong.
Once we packed up camp, we refilled our reservoirs at the lake and got back on the trail for a while. Our planned route took us off trail on the second day, and when we stepped off, I got the map out and tried to figure out just how on earth a person wouldn't get lost out there. In this vicinity, it was relatively easy to get into meadows or clearings and try to pinpoint a location from the high peaks scattered around. I wasn't really used to reading a topo map, though, so although I could identify high points on the map, I had difficulty translating them accurately to what I was seeing around me. Jason was an experienced guide and could help. Although he had never hiked the route we were taking, he had been in the area before, and it seemed simple for him to navigate through it.
We enjoyed breakfast, and I luxuriated in the sunshine. Coming to Yosemite from upstate New York, I found such an excess of sunlight was a rare treat. I couldn't get enough of the feeling of it on my skin. But starting on day two of the trip, I was going to learn a second lesson about hiking at altitude in the sun: fair skin like mine sunburns quickly and easily. Although I had applied sunblock while we were hiking, it seemed to be providing inadequate protection. But even if it was protecting me on the trail, the damage was still being done while I was lounging around in camp early in the morning, before the sun even felt that strong.
Once we packed up camp, we refilled our reservoirs at the lake and got back on the trail for a while. Our planned route took us off trail on the second day, and when we stepped off, I got the map out and tried to figure out just how on earth a person wouldn't get lost out there. In this vicinity, it was relatively easy to get into meadows or clearings and try to pinpoint a location from the high peaks scattered around. I wasn't really used to reading a topo map, though, so although I could identify high points on the map, I had difficulty translating them accurately to what I was seeing around me. Jason was an experienced guide and could help. Although he had never hiked the route we were taking, he had been in the area before, and it seemed simple for him to navigate through it.
Matthes Lake vicinity, Yosemite National Park
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Matthes Crest, Yosemite National Park
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II
Matthes Lake, Yosemite National Park
We spent some time around Echo Lake, and after passing by my second high Sierra lake, I was starting to understand that these spots on the map often marked some spectacular places. I felt full of anticipation as we made our way toward Matthes Lake. I wanted to hike faster and get there sooner. I could hardly wait to see what it would look like.
Matthes Lake was my favorite part of this trip. Something about the enormity of it just absolutely captivated me. We swam in the lake until we got cold on the evening we arrived, then we set up camp, pumped water, and enjoyed a relaxing dinner (which I partially helped prepare using a tiny camp stove for the first time in my life) and quite a bit of stargazing. I slept well that night below Matthes Crest. I think I could have stared at it all night long in the moonlight. Just amazing.
Matthes Lake was my favorite part of this trip. Something about the enormity of it just absolutely captivated me. We swam in the lake until we got cold on the evening we arrived, then we set up camp, pumped water, and enjoyed a relaxing dinner (which I partially helped prepare using a tiny camp stove for the first time in my life) and quite a bit of stargazing. I slept well that night below Matthes Crest. I think I could have stared at it all night long in the moonlight. Just amazing.
Matthes Crest, Yosemite National Park
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A view into Echo Creek Canyon, Yosemite National Park
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Another view into the southern part of Echo Creek Canyon from a saddle on the eastern ridge of the Matthes Lake canyon, Yosemite National Park
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Echo Creek Canyon from the saddle. I was a bit nervous about making my way down the granite and into Echo Creek Canyon.
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Day Three
Echo Creek Canyon, Yosemite National Park
We awoke to frost on our backpacks outside the tent. The sun was bright and warm, though, and we enjoyed it along with a leisurely breakfast. I took another brief dip in the lake to cool my sunburn. Then we broke camp and headed out. We took a route out of the canyon that didn't quite work out, and we ended up cliffed farther down past the lake. Had I been more experienced, we might have tried to descend; instead, we walked back to the lake and crossed at another point. Even there, the trip down to the canyon floor was a bit intimidating for someone so new. I felt agile enough on the rocks, but even the lightweight pack on my back gave me a sense of being off balance as I crossed the sloping granite on our descent.
We traversed Echo Creek Canyon, and it was marvelous: tall cliffs on either side but easy walking through light forest and meadows. Small, warm pools of water had collected here and there, and a small, cool stream was still flowing. At the north end of the canyon, we began a brief ascent, and on the way down, we had wide views of distant peaks alternately lit and shaded by large clouds passing overhead.
We made fast progress on the downhill and reached Tuolumne Meadows once again to complete our trip. This first foray into wilderness backpacking was immensely rewarding for me both in learning experiences and in the pure enjoyment of getting back to the basics of life at high altitude with everything I needed on my back. It was a masterfully planned and executed trip, and I felt grateful to Jason for being willing to take me on the trip even though I knew nothing about backpacking and would be able to contribute very little to our overall experience. We made good traveling partners, though, and the trip exceeded my every hope and expectation.
We traversed Echo Creek Canyon, and it was marvelous: tall cliffs on either side but easy walking through light forest and meadows. Small, warm pools of water had collected here and there, and a small, cool stream was still flowing. At the north end of the canyon, we began a brief ascent, and on the way down, we had wide views of distant peaks alternately lit and shaded by large clouds passing overhead.
We made fast progress on the downhill and reached Tuolumne Meadows once again to complete our trip. This first foray into wilderness backpacking was immensely rewarding for me both in learning experiences and in the pure enjoyment of getting back to the basics of life at high altitude with everything I needed on my back. It was a masterfully planned and executed trip, and I felt grateful to Jason for being willing to take me on the trip even though I knew nothing about backpacking and would be able to contribute very little to our overall experience. We made good traveling partners, though, and the trip exceeded my every hope and expectation.
The view north after ascending from Echo Creek Canyon, Yosemite National Park
There were several elements that made the trip a success.
The right gear: Although I adapted several pieces of my distance running gear on this trip, Jason let me know ahead of time about some must-have items for comfortable backpacking in the Sierra.
A realistic trip plan: Rather than try to put in enormous mileage and see all the sights at once, Jason chose a 3-day trip with plenty of highlights within short distance of one another, alleviating any pressure to hike fast or beyond my abilities to reach a destination. We had plenty of options, flexibility in how we spent our time (e.g., lots of time for leisurely breakfasts and photography), and could have exited early had the need arisen.
Simplicity: Meals and cleanup were simple and fast and helped keep the focus on backpacking and the time we wanted to spend together.
This trip wasn't without its unknowns, of course. Jason and I were meeting in person for the first time after a few months of Skype and phone conversations that had made us acquaintances on opposite coasts of the United States. I had only an inkling that I'd enjoy backpacking, and Jason and I were untested trail companions. Much might have gone wrong, but nothing did. It was a perfect trip and the start of a friendship that grew into much, much more.
The right gear: Although I adapted several pieces of my distance running gear on this trip, Jason let me know ahead of time about some must-have items for comfortable backpacking in the Sierra.
A realistic trip plan: Rather than try to put in enormous mileage and see all the sights at once, Jason chose a 3-day trip with plenty of highlights within short distance of one another, alleviating any pressure to hike fast or beyond my abilities to reach a destination. We had plenty of options, flexibility in how we spent our time (e.g., lots of time for leisurely breakfasts and photography), and could have exited early had the need arisen.
Simplicity: Meals and cleanup were simple and fast and helped keep the focus on backpacking and the time we wanted to spend together.
This trip wasn't without its unknowns, of course. Jason and I were meeting in person for the first time after a few months of Skype and phone conversations that had made us acquaintances on opposite coasts of the United States. I had only an inkling that I'd enjoy backpacking, and Jason and I were untested trail companions. Much might have gone wrong, but nothing did. It was a perfect trip and the start of a friendship that grew into much, much more.
